Sunday was a rest day in Bonavista. By that, I mean I didn't kayak. Rather, I walked about 20 km! The town is a beautiful seaside community with numerous historic homes, and the caravel the Matthew, which was sailed into Bonavista in the summer of 1997, to commemorate John Cabot's landing 500 years earlier. I also walked to the Cape Bonavista lighthouse, which I'd passed on dancing waves on Saturday.

The Harbour View B&B in Bonavista, run lovingly by Florence and Albert Little, was a wonderful place to rest up...and fuel up! Breakfast was a three course meal, and what sets this B&B apart from others I have visited, is the late night snack offered each evening; fresh crab and homemade berry pies, as well as fun conversation and lots of Newfoundland folklore thrown in.

This morning, I departed in moderate headwinds towards Blackhead Bay, at the south east tip of Bonavista Bay. I found an idyllic, sheltered cove with the perfect landing pebble beach, and a lacy waterfall plummeting to the beach right behind my kayak. What a lovely place, but I continued onwards.

I crossed Blackhead Bay on small beam waves. It was a short crossing compared to some I made, but I paddled with focus and was relieved to reach the far side as storm clouds were rolling in. I saw few birds today. I decided to stop early, at Keels, about a 25 km paddle. I pulled ashore, and a local named Joe gave me the fish twine shed to "camp" in. The wind is blowing and ominous clouds scud across the sky, but I have my unique accommodation for the evening.

As I walked through Keels this evening, population 70, everyone I met asked me, "Are you the lady kayaking around Newfoundland?" Word sure spreads quickly in these small communities.