Cooks Harbour
Thursday, July 13, 2006
What a great day! I woke up to a crisp morning with heavy dew soaking the tent. You know it's cold when the mosquitoes are in hiding on a calm morning. I was on the water by 6:30. As I was preparing for the day, the water was a silky, soft pink. The landscape slowly was lit by the sun travelling across the land. The sky was cloudless.
Oh, and I saw my first moose last night! It was in the distance foraging, but, I saw a moose.
I retraced the few kilometers I'd paddled yesterday, and enjoyed the jagged coastline. I was happy to have the swells and light wind pushing me northwards.
I paddled past Quirpon, pronounced "Carpoon" here in Newfoundland, and saw an old French bread oven built into a rock. I paddled to L'Anse Aux Meadows and saw the Viking settlement along the shore. I also saw Great Sacred Island in the distance, and it had a huge red rock which I could see from very far away in contrast to the grey rock. It looked like a piece of Ayer's Rock kerplunked randomly at the edge of the island.
Many eider ducks swam and flew near me, including dozens of ducklings. The males are beautiful, with black and white colouration.
I stopped at Cape Onion for a leg stretch and lunch. It was also a great photo opportunity, with a miniature village including a lighthouse, Samuel Hurley's colourful garden with innumerable wooden knick knacks all handmade by him, including a large snake in the actual shape of the wood, and a laundry line filled with half a dozen colourful homemade quilts. The sun was shining and the water was calm. Perfect cumulus clouds floated serenely. I met Kitt Tuckers who had heard about my journey for the first time yesterday, and now I'd landed across the road from her home. She was quite excited about the serendipitous moment.
I decided to cross Pistolet Bay, a 15 km crossing. Conditions were ideal. I paddled with non-stop energy. I know how the weather can change in an instant. And it did! I saw a line of white caps approaching me as I looked over to Labrador. I was thankfully only 2 km from shore, but I dug in with every ounce of my energy. In 60 seconds, the water had gone from flat calm to 1 meter waves bucking the kayak and sending walls of sea spray at me. Who needs hairspray when there's sea spray!? An idyllic day should always end with a good challenge, eh?
I landed on a small beach about 0.5 km from Cook's Harbour. I'm camped in a lovely flower meadow. Here in town, I'm at Deanna Carroll's computer. Thanks kindly, Deanna.
I had a 10 hour day of paddling. I'll sleep well tonight, and weather permitting, I'll round Cape Norman tommorrow and head southwards!
Oh, and I saw my first moose last night! It was in the distance foraging, but, I saw a moose.
I retraced the few kilometers I'd paddled yesterday, and enjoyed the jagged coastline. I was happy to have the swells and light wind pushing me northwards.
I paddled past Quirpon, pronounced "Carpoon" here in Newfoundland, and saw an old French bread oven built into a rock. I paddled to L'Anse Aux Meadows and saw the Viking settlement along the shore. I also saw Great Sacred Island in the distance, and it had a huge red rock which I could see from very far away in contrast to the grey rock. It looked like a piece of Ayer's Rock kerplunked randomly at the edge of the island.
Many eider ducks swam and flew near me, including dozens of ducklings. The males are beautiful, with black and white colouration.
I stopped at Cape Onion for a leg stretch and lunch. It was also a great photo opportunity, with a miniature village including a lighthouse, Samuel Hurley's colourful garden with innumerable wooden knick knacks all handmade by him, including a large snake in the actual shape of the wood, and a laundry line filled with half a dozen colourful homemade quilts. The sun was shining and the water was calm. Perfect cumulus clouds floated serenely. I met Kitt Tuckers who had heard about my journey for the first time yesterday, and now I'd landed across the road from her home. She was quite excited about the serendipitous moment.
I decided to cross Pistolet Bay, a 15 km crossing. Conditions were ideal. I paddled with non-stop energy. I know how the weather can change in an instant. And it did! I saw a line of white caps approaching me as I looked over to Labrador. I was thankfully only 2 km from shore, but I dug in with every ounce of my energy. In 60 seconds, the water had gone from flat calm to 1 meter waves bucking the kayak and sending walls of sea spray at me. Who needs hairspray when there's sea spray!? An idyllic day should always end with a good challenge, eh?
I landed on a small beach about 0.5 km from Cook's Harbour. I'm camped in a lovely flower meadow. Here in town, I'm at Deanna Carroll's computer. Thanks kindly, Deanna.
I had a 10 hour day of paddling. I'll sleep well tonight, and weather permitting, I'll round Cape Norman tommorrow and head southwards!
2 Comments:
Hi Wendy,
It was a great pleasure to meet you. I admire the courage & energy you have. Please remember that if you are ever back in Cook's Harbour again, my door is always open. My son (who is 7) hasn't stopped talking about the woman in the kayak, he is amazed. You seem like a very nice and beautiful person. And, I would greatly appreciate you emailing me to let me know you have arrived safely at your next destination, or when you get safely back home. May God Bless you and watch over you on your journey.
Your Friend,
Deanna Carroll
Cook's Harbour, Newfoundland
dcarroll_77@hotmail.com
Hello Wendy,
It was indeed a surprise to have you show up on the beach across from my house! Later in the day we had a barbecue on the beach, and when I told a fisherman of your travels around the island, he said, "She's got some nerve. I wouldn't do it."
That big red rock you saw on Great Sacred Island was in fact the wreck of the SS Langleecrag, which ran aground November 15, 1947.
From the summit of Western Head, my husband and son observed you approaching Ship Cove, and later, paddling toward Cook's Harbour. (You would have paddled around Cape Onion and the Mewstone Rock).
God be with you.
Kathleen Mary Tucker (Kit)
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