I got up early, 5:00 a.m. and was on the water shortly after 7:00, with a slight tailwind as I left Tors Cove. I'd spent the most wonderful evening with Merrill Francis, Janet Russell and their delightful daughter Antonia. Their house sits at the summit of a hill overlooking the entire Tors Cove area and the Witless Bay Bird Sanctuary. I enjoyed a delicious and healthy dinner with this panoramic view and enjoyable conversation.

The night was cold. I had cinched the hood of my down sleeping bag tight around my face. As usual, the tent was soaked from dew.

Looking at the map, and delighted by my early departure, I'd planned to paddle the 40 plus kilometers to St. John's. Sunshine bathed the gorgeous coastline. A cloudless sky embraced me. Thus, I headed out towards Green Island, the smallest island of the Witless Bay Bird Sanctuary. From the right perspective, this island lies on the water like a turtle swimming through the ocean.

As I approached the island, I'd noticed that the wind had arrived, but it was still moderate, and that I was surrounded by thousands of murres, circling low to the water in hurried flight. The occassional puffin bobbed on the waves, and some guillemots joined the murres. Spiraling circles of birds flew everywhere. But I realized that the waves and wind had increased considerably, in all of a few minutes, yet the forecast had predicted 10 to 15 knots of variable wind. But gusts were well over 30 knots.

I headed straight to shore into Witless Bay. The paddle took all my energy, and I did not relish the thought of an offshore wind blowing me to Ireland! I landed on a sheltered cobble beach. I emptied the kayak, carried it well above the high tide line, and spread out all my damp gear. Everything dried instantly in the warm wind and bright sunshine. I ate one of my staple lunches, bagel with peanutbutter and honey. Sweet. And, for the first time since my arrival here in Newfoundland, I was wearing shorts and a tank top.

While I wrote my journal however, the wind shifted 180 degrees racing across the bay towards the beach, and a cold bite sent my goosebump covered skin scrambling for turtleneck, wool sweater, Primaloft vest, and fleece pants yet again!

And then I met Kevin Smart, a councillor for the town of Witless Bay. He recommended using the town hall computer, and here I am, updating my blog already, thanks to Barb Harigan, employee at town hall who has relinquished her computer to me.

Tomorrow evening, Neil Burgess, president of Kayak Newfoundland and Labrador, will pick me and my kayak up wherever I might be, and bring me to St. John's for an evening at a local pub with the members of Newfoundland's paddling community. I'm looking forward to meeting other paddlers and sharing a fun evening of conversation. I'm sure the gulls don't understand I word I say to them as I paddle by. I wonder what the birds think when my yellow kayak slowly plods forward through the ocean.

Hi Glenn,

I'm in Tors Cove. I started today, May 30, from Ferryland. I'd camped in Helen and Herb Williams' backyard, a name given to me by their daughter in Trepassey a few days earlier. Here, I'm with Merill and Janet Francis, at the top of a hill overlooking the Witless Bay Ecological Bird Sanctuary. Stunning. I battled headwinds today, so didn't make it to my planned take-out at Bay Bulls. Instead, I stopped early, had the Whisperlite stove cleaned for optimim performance, and myself cleaned, for optimium feeling great.

On Monday, I paddled from Chance Cove to Ferryland with seas picking up midday. The kayak danced wildly around the head by Ferryland. The home I stayed at, was beside the Avalon Colony Archaelogical dig. I picked up a letter from my mom, general delivery, from the post office, and found a newspaper clipping of my daughter as a special surprise.

On Sunday, the day after a raging storm, I set out from Trepassey on high seas around Mistaken Point and Cape Race. The conditions settled down with a nice southerly swell pushing me to Chance Cove, where through a wall of surf, I saw the entrance to a narrow river, and shot into a calm, beautiful cove. But the day ended with a pot of chicken leg stew offered to me by Daphne Welch, a fly fisherwoman. Serendipity at its best. And in the morning, my kayak was hauled to water's edge on my new cart from Freya by Bill Kennedy, who used an ATV to transport my load of gear and my kayak.

Oh what fun!

______________

Wendy is barrelling right along, having reached Trepassey today. Winds and weather have been in her favour, but tomorrow's forecast looks grim so she promises to stay put if conditions are not good. Of course, she also promised not to undertake any long solo crossings, just before traversing St. Mary's Bay (30km!) to Peter's River, where she camped last night.
Many thanks to Rick Hayes for helping Wendy repair her failed neck gasket while she enjoyed Rick and Chris' warm hospitality in Conception Bay South, the repair eased her mind considerably.
Tonight she has her tent pitched on the grounds of a historic old home near Trepassey after "only" paddling 8 hours, with thanks to Bill Kennedy who hauled her gear, her boat and herself off the beach with the his trusty ATV and Freya's donated kayak cart. The view she says, is incredible. She will have plenty of company tonight, as seven sheep have come to investigate her campsite so far.
Wendy said the trip around Cape St. Mary's was a spectacular experience from the water, even though she had seen it from the cliffs above on a pevious land-based trip. Those who have seen Justine Curgenven's This is the Sea II will recall the Cape as the site of a huge gannet colony, 11,000 pairs strong, unique in its mainland location as gannets prefer islands for their nesting sites. Wendy also enjoyed seeing hundreds of puffins near Cape Pine.

Rick has kindly forwarded me some of Wendy's photos on cd via snail mail, I promise to post them as soon as they arrive.

Glenn

Freya is on her way back to Germany. What a great paddling partner she is! We had ample fun and paddled hard together, but also enjoyed the majestic land and people that we were travelling through.

I'm at Chris Mousseau's and Rick Hayes' home. I am such a lucky paddler to have met so many kind, generous and hospitable people so early on into the journey, but I already knew that Newfoundland is a very special place for so many reasons. Chris came to pick me up on a dreary, wet, foggy, windy Sunday at a small cove called Cuslett, at the southern tip of the Avalon Peninsula. Both Freya and myself spent Sunday evening in the warm company of kind hosts living not too far from St. John's, where Freya's flight departed from on this Victoria Day holiday. Freya had met her goal, to paddle around Cape St. Mary's. I chose not to paddle on Sunday, and to rest up. I've got a long way to go, and knew that it was time to rest.

While Freya was paddling in gusty wind and very dense fog, I visited the nearby home of John and Nora Manning in Cuslett. To walk into a kitchen wafting with the warmth of an oil stove and the company of many visiting family members was a special treat as I listened to their stories of growing up in this hamlet. John, of Irish descent like many of the locals on the Avalon Peninsula, was proud to mention that one of his ewe's gave birth to triplet lambs, only the second time in his 47 years of sheep farming. I was treated to a huge, mouth watering breakfast by two of his daughters, Glenda and Tammy, while Freya was paddling alone in increasing fog. But Freya is a remarkable paddler, and I wasn't the least bit worried about her even though her take out point at Point Lance had a wide surf zone and extremely limited visibilty.

Soon enough, Chris arrived with a thermos of steaming hot chocolate, and a hearty lunch of breads, cheese, fruit and chocolate. With such strenuous paddling days, I manage to eat like a glutton, and look slimmer, more toned than ever. I am sporting what I call the Canadian kayaker's tan; tanned hands from the wrist to the fingers, and a circle of colour around my nose and cheeks, as the rest has been often tucked into the hood of my expedition suit.

There are just so many people who have been helpful in any way possible. While in Burin on May 16, we had the pleasure of meeting the post master, Sharon Cake, who not only took care of our postal needs, but readily helped recharge depleted batteries. And just across the street in this heritage town, Michelle Rowsell, manager of the museum, gave us access to her computer so we could catch up on e-mail, and update the blog. But she also drove us to a food store where we once again crammed our hatches with more food! Freya's deck looked so lovely after grocery sprees as she made a fruit basket beneath her handy deck net of oranges, apples, bananas, and plums. Her wing blade paddle, or spoon blade, made the perfect serving spoon, as she passed neatly slices of apple from her blade to mine. Such service on the high seas!

We left Burin on dead calm seas, but by the time we reached the Flat Islands, a strong side wind had our kayaks leaping over lively waves. Freya called this segment "www, Wendy With Waves". The next morning, we dragged our kayaks over a narrow tombolo, let's just say a "neck" of land, and paddled into headwinds and fog and called it a day at Marticot Island. On our way to Marticot Island, in the pouring rain, Freya found a beach just wide enough for two kayakers and their bursting bladders. But best of all, there was a cliff overhang, which provided a dry place to pee in our very different styles, the "he/she" methods. On Marticot Island, the rain stopped just as we arrived, and just as the tents were erected, the wind stopped too!
Amazingly, a few strips of birch bark ignited a cozy beach fire, made from soaking wet wood. Freya managed to singe numerous holes in her drying garments.

On May 18, we left Marticot Island, with drifting fog and more headwinds. It was what I call a long short day. We paddled around Eastern Head, where water was completely wacky. Heaps and holes, and no rhythm or predictability, had our kayaks dancing wildly. Near the cliffs just north of Great Paradise and Little Paradise, now summer home communities, clapotis rebounded off the cliffs, 1 meter waves charged towards us, sending our bows smashing into the troughs, and huge swells, hills of rolling water, surged us towards Merasheen Island. Often the horizon was diagonal or had completely disappeared. Freya had to fight becoming seasick. We were relieved after our 6 hour, 20 km paddle, to reach the tranquility of the beautiful Merasheen Harbour. We landed at the first cove, of many, and slept for a good part of the day. We also met Charlie Patrick and his nephew Mike Kelly, who were preparing their boat for lumpfish season, commencing in a few days, and which would bring them a harvest of caviar. They told us of a place to obtain fresh, potable water, and where we had a good chance to see caribou. And sure enough, just like we were told, a young caribou buck eyed us curiously from the tundra ridge.

On May 19, with increasing tailwinds, we crossed Placentia Bay, Newfoundland's largest bay, and made landfall in Great Barasway on the Avalon Penisula. I managed to make an imperfect landing in our first surf, and was immediately made aware of the importance of proper immersion protection. Part way through the crossing, we heard a "whoosh", and saw a finback whale swimming fairly close by. It seems that every time we make a big water crossing, we get a glimpse of these leviathan creatures. It certainly breaks up the monotony of a large crossing. This crossing was our longest yet, a 40 km crossing managed in less than 7 hours.

May 20, we started in calm conditions, but gusty winds had us paddling with all our strength into Cuslett Cove. We'd intended to round Cape St. Mary's to see the gannet colony residing on the imposing cliffs, but that would have to wait. Freya fell asleep on the beach. I too felt tired.

And now, I'm showered, well fed, slept in a warm, dry bed, and have all my gear rinsed and drying in the yard of my hosts, Chris Mousseau and Rick Hayes. I should say a sincere thank you to both Chris and Rick for all their helpful actions.

I'll rest up until at least Tuesday, and then venture alone back onto the sea, around the impressive Cape St. Mary's. I'm sure glad that Freya didn't spend 16 paddling days in Newfoundland, trapped in fog. She got to experience the stunning beauty of a remote yet accessible shore. But I'm sure that Freya will give you her perspective of the adventure soon enough.

I'm looking forward to my new challenge, the solo portion of my trip. Let the journey continue...Round the Rock!

Photo of Cuslett's Cove courtesy of Carol Horner, whose excellent photo work can be seen here:
http://www.pbase.com/carolmhorner

Rick Hayes of Kayak Newfoundland and Labrador reports:

Had a call from Wendy in Cuslett, between Placentia and St. Mary's Bays...they are deciding whether to attempt rounding Cape St. Mary's tomorrow, in light of predicted 50-70 km headwinds. Freya wants to see the Cape, and the bird colony. We'll hear from them some time tomorrow re pickup, etc.

I should mention that Rick and the wonderful folks of Canada Post Newfoundland have been working furiously to expedite a shipment of Freya's gear, which languished a day or two too long in NS before being shipped. Keep your fingers crossed everyone, that everything clicks today and Freya receives her boat bags (necessary for air shipment to Germany) on time. Thanks Rick! I owe the Kelligrews postmistress a kiss and a berry flan.

Glenn

Michelle, the nice lady hosting us at her office.

Freya



. . and this from Justine . . .

----------------------------------

Hello,

I had the opportunity this morning to speak with both Wendy and Freya. I wanted to get picture of them paddling away from Burin, yet they paddled faster than I could find my camera. However, I am forwarded a shot of them leaving the Burin harbour and heading into the Atlantic ocean.

Take Care,

Michelle

----------------------------------

Thank you Michelle!

A report from our travelers, one caveat: I am not responsible for the wording of the first paragraph! LOL

Glenn


Hi Glenn,

We are in the lovely heritage town of Burin. Incredibly good weather continues to be with us. In fact, today we woke up in heat with bugs!

On Thursday, May 11, we started from a lovely cove, Gulch Cove, and followed the imposing shoreline of cliffs and fjiords. We found an impressive blow hole and small beaches early in the day for short breaks. Later, after a long hard day of paddling, beaches and landing sites became impossible to find. We tried Facheux Bay and Facheux Eye, but nothing was suitable. A full moon was rising over Hermitage Bay and we decided to paddle under the full moon on calm water to Pass Island, some 20 km away. About half way across, following a waving moon beam, we stopped. We were surrounded by the sounds of breathing whales. We couldn't see them in the dim light, but what a moment, to be in the presence of these sleeping giants. Finally at 1 in the morning, after 17 hours of kayaking, we landed cold and tired on a small beach on Pass Island, having paddled 80 km in one go!

The next day, on Friday, May 12, we crossed from Pass Island to Brunette Island on calm water, a 32 km crossing. We spent 8 hours in our kayaks, and were privileged to see humpback whales spouting and displaying their flukes. Freya was so excited. She'd never seen whales in the wild before! And then we saw several finback whales silhouetted by the low sun as we approached Brunette Island.

On Saturday, May 13, we crossed to Fortune with a moderate tailwind. We updated our food supply, and found a lawn at Melita's place to safely park our kayaks which Freya wheeled on her handy home-made cart. (Which Freya will be giving me as a gift when she returns to Germany! Thank you, Freya!!) In sunshine and decreased wind, we paddled to Great Dantzic Cove.

On Sunday, we found a cell tower, and were able to call our mothers for Mother's Day and Freya called her son Helge and Wendy called her daughter Sara! We paddled to Pump Cove just east of Lord's Cove, the first night where we had a human encounter. (Some guys on ATV's.)

On Monday we paddled in very dense fog making a 10 km crossing of Lawn Bay, then found the sun and land of course too, and followed a rugged coast where there was an abandoned mine. Here we found some deep caves, about 100 meters deep, which we entered. We found a wonderful campsite on Burin Island, after a 50 km paddle. We could hear sheep bleating on nearby Shalloway Island.

Freya has been very keen on making campfires in the evening with the huge supply of driftwood found handy on the beaches. Thankfully, we have birch bark, which helps even wet wood take flame!

Freya thanks all who wished her a happy birthday. (But don't guess I'm getting old!!!) We celebrated with a huge bon fire, and a glass of wine made from dried crystals brought from Germany!!

While I was playing in the tidal race off Pictou Harbour NS this afternoon, Wendy called in from Fortune on the Burin peninsula. By my calculations this latest push puts Freya and Wendy pretty much right on sched, even though they don't officially have an iron clad itinerary.

Unfortunately, Wendy's call was fielded by my monosyllabic teenage son, so details of their adventures are sketchy or non-existant. I'd love to know where they made the crossing to the Burin, and what the conditions were.
Hopefully when the pair reaches a town with a CAP internet site, they can fill us in on the details.
Well done, great progress!

Glenn

HAPPY BIRTHDAY FREYA!!

....Glenn and the folks at PCPandO

Our adventurers are warm and safe, here's Wendy's latest report:

Hi Glenn!

We're in Burgeo. We met Perry Humphries, who is attempting to make the KNL (Kayak Newfoundland and Labrador) association more prominent on the west coast of Newfoundland. We also met Derrick Mercer, a local paddler, who gave us helpful advice on landing spots east of Burgeo, as we will soon encounter fjiords and steep cliffs. We've had two days of sunshine. We also just had a warm shower! How divine. We're stocked up on food and will head out shortly eastwards. Yesterday we had ample sunshine, lots of beautiful scenery, that we saw for the first time since the fog lifted, and enjoyed the long stretches of sugary white beaches. Freya was brave enough to romp around in her bathing suit during our breaks. What a difference from Sunday when we added a cagoule over our expedition Gore-tex suits just to stay warm enough! The weather forecast predicts favourable conditions. We'll take what we can get.



Regards,

Wendy and Freya!




The good folks at Kayak Newfoundland and Labrador have added a progress report page to their great web site, check it out at:

http://www.kayakers.nf.ca/roundtherock/roundtherock.htm

Thanks guys!!

Glenn

Finally I've heard from Wendy and Freya, they've made excellent progress; 70+km!
Here's Wendy's brief communique, and a brief description of their outport stop-over courtesy of explorenewfoundlandandlabrador.com. (Glenn)

Hi Glenn!

We're in Grand Bruit staying for lunch with Linda and Gordon Farrell. It was a wet, cold, windy day so it feels great to be in the warmth of a home having a delicious meal. We've paddled in headwinds daily, found quiet coves for campsites, and have seen beautiful scenery. We're having fun, despite the dreary, grey weather.


Regards, Wendy and Freya



From explorenewfoundlandandlabrador.com:
Grand Bruit - Newfoundland and Labrador
Grand Bruit is a quaint isolated fishing community only accessible by boat. The passenger ferry service leaving from Rose Blanche is about a two-hour trip to Grand Bruit or with the use of a private vessel, only one hour. The community is situated on the shores of a well-protected harbour with sloping hills and a waterfall that makes a path through the centre of the village. The name "Grand Bruit", is no doubt French meaning "great noise" as is apparent by the roar of the falls which can be heard from a great distance. Grand Bruit was settled in the 1800's most likely because of the well-protected harbour, its abundance of forest and fresh water and its proximity to rich fishing grounds. It is thought that Grand Bruit was settled by the English and Jersey planters and fishermen who were encouraged to come by fishing merchants of Jersey. A visit to this picturesque fishing village will take you on a path that is dotted with brightly colored houses, providing an opportunity to meet with the friendly people of Grand Bruit. Because of its safe and interesting location, the Grand Bruit harbour has become a popular resting point for visitors to the area by way of pleasure crafts. Natural and traditionally Newfoundland, the settlement of Grand Bruit remains among the now few isolated fishing communities on the island. It offers a truly unique experience that is filled with the rich culture and heritage of outport Newfoundland.

The whirlwind has passed, heading ever eastward. Wendy and Freya drove off yesterday morning with a sleek Solstice GTS and a stunning (very) Special edition NDK Explorer on the racks atop Wendy's trusty Honda CRV.
Remarkably, they hit the Trans-Canada at a few minutes after 8:00 am, after having arrived from picking up Freya at Halifax Int'l Airport just 8 hours earlier. With 5 hours time difference between Husum Germany and tiny New Glasgow Nova Scotia, I can only imagine how weary Freya must be. There was no sign of that yesterday morning though as I tried valiantly to dodge flying paddle gear and avoid running over costly Kevlar, backing out of my yard for the drive to work. The excitement in the air was palpable. How I wish I could have accompanied these two adventurers on what has to be the trip of a lifetime, a 2700+ km circumnavigation of Newfoundland Canada. I must say they made quite a sight at the airport, unpacking and assembling Freya's 3-piece (S)Explorer right there on the concrete walkway outside International Arrivals!
We drew a crowd, with bystanders' expressions ranging from amazement to bewilderment. The Commissionaires (guards) on duty were very good about the mess and congestion, and wanted to know if Freya was; "...waiting for the tide to come in?" One portly blackhat said to me; "I've seen a lot of bicycles put together here, but never a kayak!"
The hour spent listening to Wendy and Freya on the drive home from the airport was fascinating, these two are as different as night and day except perhaps when it comes to capability. I have no doubt whatsoever that Freya will provide great support for Wendy on the Southern coastal leg of this epic journey, nor that Wendy will carry on to complete the odyssey on her own terms, in her own time, safely. As Justine said; YOU GO GIRL.
At the time of this writing, our travelers are probably settling into their tents, hopefully in a sheltered cove with lots of fresh water and firewood. One thing's for sure; they'll have no bugs to contend with given the air temps in Atlantic Canada right now. Cool air notwithstanding, our summer weather is due to arrive two weeks early this year, and the waters are unusually ice-free. Even so, I'll no doubt jump every time the phone rings until I hear for sure that they're ok, being a born worrier.
Their plan was to make the ferry crossing from North Sydney NS to Port-aux-Basques Nfld, do the short drive to Isles aux Morts, rent a cabin where they will leave Wendy's vehicle and set out from there. Hmmm... Isles aux Morts?
For those with Google Earth, please take a look at Newfoundland's coastline near the southeast corner and you'll get an idea of the daunting topography that awaits them. Notice the absence of roads. And people...
But then that's what it's all about, isn't it?

Glenn

Let the adeventure begin. I just drove from London, Ontario to New Glasgow, Nova Scotia, driving 1900 kilometers in two days, with an overnight stop along the mighty St. Lawrence River in a place called L'Islet Sur Mer. Now, I'm resting at Glenn MacKay's home with his wife Megan and their two wonderful sons. I'm awaiting the arrival of Freya Hoffmeister, my paddling friend, from Husum, Germany. She arrives tomorrow night in Halifax with all her gear and her three piece take-apart NDK Explorer kayak. On Thursday, May 4, we take the ferry from North Sydney, Nova Scotia to Channel-Port-Aux-Basques, Newfoundland. We plan to paddle counter clockwise.

Newfoundland is known affectionately as "The Rock". Newfoundland is known for its hospitality. We hope to paddle in splendid solitude, meet whales, see innumerable pelagic birds, enjoy stunning scenery, and experience the hospitality of the islanders.

Local paddlers are welcome to join us/myself. We are looking forward to starting our adventure "Round the Rock"!