An early morning start, 4:45 A.M. wake-up and 6:00 A.M. launch, got me 20 km west to Pacquet before strong headwinds blew my way. Seems like headwinds really like me. It was already hot and sticky as I walked to the stage where my kayak awaited me.

I arrived in Pacquet to meet two fishermen, Guss Sacrey and John Sacrey, on a small rocky beach near their homes. I was invited for coffee, and then, John, his wife Janice, and myself took a short ride to Woodstock to have a twirlie. That hit the spot on this hot, humid day. It feels like I'm in a sauna, just like June in Ontario. The weather has been unseasonably warm this spring and early summer.

John and Janice also took me out in his skiff and we zoomed along rugged, rocky shoreline to his lobster traps. After checking about 20 traps, two lobsters were retrieved. It's been three years according to John that the traps are usually empty.

I enjoyed crab legs for dinner, which is lunch in Ontario. And supper is our dinner in Ontario.

Now, I'm exploring on foot through the lovely village, hugging a curving bay with numerous stages. I'm at the home of Juanita and Gordon Greenham. Their daughter Laurel got me onto the computer so I could once again update the blog.

Tomorrow's Canada Day. Even small communities like Pacquet have celebration plans.

The wind blows strongly, and I continue to enjoy my stay in La Scie.

Today, I sat in the sun, out of the wind, macrameing a bracelet from embroidery floss found at the local hardware store. I also visited the Outport Tearoom, where I researched Newfoundland words and expressions while enjoying home baked partridgeberry pie. And now, I'm at the public library at the computer.

I've had me lashins (plenty) of wind! But at least I didn't have to chinch (to stow tightly) full me kayak today. And no quotting today in the drysuit. ( crouching or squatting;-) ) And this morning, I handwashed me step'ines to dry quickly on the line in the wind. (underwear;-) ) Do ye twig what I wrote? (understand) It appears that I'm going full bim around Newfoundland. (as fast as I can go.) It takes some gumptions to paddle Round the Rock in a kayak, solo. It would be stun as me arse to go out though in high winds. ( not too bright) I'm not that burnt. (crazy) But even when I'm not paddling, I'm gutfounded. (hungry) But an angishore, I'm not! (a weak, miserable person) How ye gettin' on b'y? (How are you doing?) Enough work to do to make ye yuck! (vomit;-) ) Me hands are no longer galled (blistered). I am in the mood for a twirlie. (soft ice cream) Last night there was quite the scoff at the household where I'm staying. (an awesome meal) Me knows I'm some ticket. (unique, no one quite like myself) Do you like twirlies? The protected harbour is even loppy today. (small breaking seas) I don't mind this slinge. (staying away from school or work) See ya!

Last evening, when it was duckish (the time between sunset and dark), dramatic clouds filled the sky. It was a glorious evening, as daisies nodded wildly in the hefty wind.

I decided to spend an extra day in La Scie, French for "saw" as the mountains that frame this picturesque town resemble the teeth of a saw.

My hosts, Wesley Bath and Caty Chazalon, fed me a late night snack last night, freshly cooked snow crab legs, sumptuous food compared to my endless feeding frenzies on oatmeal bars and gorp.

Rounding Cape St. John in yesterday's calm conditions provided me with another sigh of relief. Sparkles of light glittered westwards as I made the final kilometers of the day on autopilot to the harbour at La Scie as ominous looking clouds descended upon the horizon. I'd paddled just over 60 km, but took advantage of the easy paddling conditions.

Today, my first place I visited was the medical clinic, where South African doctor, Dr.Wian Lotter, examined a hard, swollen bump on my heel. I never thought my paddling injury would be on my foot! Fortunately, it hasn't developed into a spur, and an anti-inflammatory prescription should clear the swelling, which also is in my middle fingers of both hands. Imagine having gigantic middle fingers. I haven't put that to good use, though perhaps I should have in Leading Tickles.

I also visited the local tearoom, "The Outport Museum and Tearoom", a place which celebrates the local history and examines the early French Basque influence on the French shoreline of Newfoundland, which extends around the Baie Verte Peninsula, and up around St. Anthony to Port Aux Basques on the southwest corner of this rocky island.

The Basque arrived here in 1504. In 2004, the pretty town celebrated the 500th anniversary, and two Basque boatbuilders from France came here, and built a replica challoupe, which sits on display infront of the museum, a house built in the 1940's, and is lovingly restored by Valerie and Larry Whalen, who with creative thinking, found a new way of life following the cod moratorium imposed in 1992 on the islanders. My conversation with Valerie and Larry was interesting and informative, but the homemade rhubarb crumble was delectable, so good, I had a second massive heaping topped with icecream. It appears that the more I eat, the skinnier I get. I just keep cinching in my belt and chowing down on food!

Weather permitting, I'll continue paddling on Thursday, keeping the Rock on my left.Thanks kindly to Wesley Bath and Caty Chazalon and family for making me feel so welcome in La Scie.

Oh, and if you missed my CBC interview and would like to see it, it should be available at the KNL website under galleries , videos.

http://205.251.46.179:3500/kayaktest/videogallery.htm

The La Sie community won the tidy town award in 2003. I should also mention that the well decorated tearoom, the Outport Tearoom, won the 2006 award for "Where to Eat in Canada". Congratulations to the Whalens for making such a fine contribution to their community.

What an amazing paddling day! I started at 7:30 from the picturesque Little Bay Islands, and found Notre Dame Bay to be dead calm. It stayed that way almost all day long, and thus I headed due north up towards Round Harbour, a 25 km crossing. I arrived shortly after noon, with the Epic wing paddle zooming me to where I want to go. Entering the small sheltered harbour, I found an idyllic setting, old houses and stages clinging to a green, clear bay. Mirror reflections surrounded me on this windless, warm day. I disembarked, dried the soaking wet tent and damp sleeping bag, while I chatted with local fishermen Wayne Snow and Raymond Dicks, who were untangling their fishing nets from the lumpfish season which just ended. I wandered over a narrow pathway along the wooden saltbox homes, up to the most colourful meadow of wild flowers, orange Indian paintbrush, yellow buttercups and mauve chives. Breathtaking splashes of colour. I munched on chives, and returned to the kayak. I decided to paddle to La Scie, since conditions were so calm. I'd round Cape St. John under easy conditions.

It took 6 hours to paddle the 30 plus kilometers from Round Harbour to La Scie, so it was a long paddle with very unforgiving shoreline, steep craggy cliffs and no take outs except at Tilt Cove and Shoe Cove.

As I approached La Scie, I heard a dog bark. It was Jada, Wesley Bath and Caty Chazalon's dog. They were out for a fun family boat ride with Samantha and Brandon. They slowly motored towards me. I asked about places to stay in La Scie, and before I knew it, I was welcome to stay with them.

So, I'm well fed, showered, including the suit which got another good hosing with me wearing it;-) ,and have computer access, and a bed! And the kayak rests in a fishing stage nearby. Life is good "Round the Rock".

My sleepless night in Leading Tickles can be attributed to a lecherous drunk who would not leave me alone to fall asleep. He kept walking into the room I was sleeping in with lustful thoughts. So, after the fourth unwarranted visit, almost 1 in the morning, I stormed out of the house, carried my 200 pounds of gear to a nearby rocky beach, carried my kayak in the dark and spread out my Thermarest under a tarp, wearing a mosquito net, to try to fall asleep. At 5:30, I got up and left.

Glenn here, I've managed to miss Wendy's calls twice in a row, so the following info may be a little garbled as most of it is 3rd hand.
She's camped comfortably on the lawn of Glynnis and John, a hospitable British couple in Little Bay Islands, Notre Dame Bay West. Wendy spent a sleepless night at Leading Tickles before moving on, I'll let her tell the tale if she wishes...
She did manage to get out for a paddle with the Kayak Newfoundland and Labrador folks as she passed the Exploits Islands.
Wendy also reports that she has received her new Epic Wing paddle, we can look forward to a first-hand report on how it functions as an extreme touring paddle!
Her Saturday trip was yet another 50km push, and she reports that map and compass work has been adequate, but a GPS might save her a few strokes on longer crossings.
All for now, I hope Wendy updates (and corrects!) soon.

Glenn

Many thanks to Dan Miller and his wife Leslie, who have given me the keys to their cottage in Payne's Cove near the community of Change Islands. Upon arrival on Thursday evening, I had an idyllic summer's evening, warm sunshine, no bugs and winds abating. I sat on the deck overlooking the sunset and the water separating Change Islands from New World Island, where I will head to next. The view from the deck was of a rocky, sheltered cove with a small stage on stilts and an old house sitting on the ragged coast. The light was a honey colour, bringing a warm ambience to the scene. It was a perfect way to end a perfect day, as I sat enjoying a beer on the deck, a surprise left in the fridge by Dan! Many thanks!

Awakening on Friday morning, the winds were howling, and driving rain pelted the windows. I decided to stay and explore this area on foot. I've made at least 6 trips to Newfoundland over my lifetime, but had never visited the Change Islands. Yesterday I entered Change Islands Tickle from the east, paddling past dozens of wooden stages on stilts, nets hanging out to dry, and boxy wooden homes clinging to the rocky outcrops. The community reminded me of the Newfoundland that is etched so vividly in my memory from my childhood trip to this island. It was like paddling back in time.

My walk brought me to a wooden ramp to a stage, where I found dozens of whale bones along the side. I also walked the Squid Jiggers Trail through tundra and tuckamore to the community, with grand vistas over to Fogo Island and the endless North Atlantic Ocean. Breathtaking, and no bugs! (due to the blowing wind)

In town, I stopped at the Burgundy Squid Cafe, and found a pair of handkinit socks that look like they belong to Pipi Longstocking. I also visited the Andrew Bown Store, a general store that was established over a hundred years ago, with stock lining shelves along the walls. And I found a snack that has eluded me since St. John's...."Oh Henry" chocolate bars. I emptied the shelf! I received a handwritten receipt for my grocery purchase and felt like a celebrity. Everyone in the store recognized me from my CBC interview which had aired on Tuesday, including Winston and Netta Bown, proprietors of the store.

While in the store, Edith Burt offered to drive me back to the cottage with my groceries. The drive took me over every winding road of the community with a detailed explanation for all my queries. It also meant a stop at Edith's home for tea, which included delicious homemade cakes. And yet I keep tightening the belt to my pants as my waist withers away as I eat like a piggish glutton.

Thirty kids attend the school, and graduation this year consisted of a class of one. Fifteen young people left the community last week, boarded a plane in St. John's to Alberta, in their quest to find employment. This community in its heydays reached a population of about 1500, but has dwindled to about 250 according to Edith.

And now, the sun has warmed the day, and I'm here to enjoy and get to experience Change Islands. Edith's daughter Diane has given me the use of her computer as the CAP site for Change Islands, the community school, is only open Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday. Weather permitting, I'll be on my way to Twillingate tomorrow good and early, and perhaps beyond.

Glenn here, Wendy is in Payne's Cove near the village of Change Islands. She's staying in lovely cabin provided by the great folks of Kayak Newfoundland & Labrador
Dan Miller of KNL provided the key, many thanks Dan!
Wendy reports a perfect day today, and says the evening is very summery feeling, a first so far on this trip. If the winds are bad for a day or two, she says, she won't mind staying on a bit!
As always, she sounds fit, strong and cheerful.
I received Wendy's 1 gig camera card today via snail mail, and am agog at the stunning photos of the Avalon and Eastern Coast. I recognized many of the locations from Tony Lee's excellent website, Kayak the Rock. Truly, Newfoundland is a sea kayaker's paradise.
Over the next few days, I will add some of Wendy's photos to her previous blog entries, don't forget to check back often!

Glenn

With some hesitation, I launched from the beautiful beach at Lumsden. The wind was stirring. And the wind picked up. All day I paddled into a strong headwind or if the shore curved, I hugged very close to land as it was a strong offshore wind. I made numerous stops. At Anchor Brook, I met a fisherman, Jim Mone. Later, In Musgrave Harbour, he greeted me on the beach where I landed. Without knowing it, I'd landed next to his home. He'd spotted me with his spy glasses, as people in Newfoundland call their binoculars. Apparently Ross Gibbons in Lumsden used his spy glasses to check on me at my dunes campsite too.

It's the summer solstice and I paddle a Current Designs Solstice GTS. I think it's the first time I've paddled my kayak on the solstice.

When I landed exhausted after 11 hours of paddling 40 km, I met Marguerite and David Leyte from Fogo Island, who invited me to stay with them at their father's home on the shore, Kenneth Tulk. First thing to happen, David toted all my gear up the beach. Thanks! Second, Dave showered me wearing my drysuit on the front lawn to rinse the salt off the suit. My face was covered in saltspray from paddling into headwinds. I enjoyed a wonderful dinner, including homebaked bread made by Marguerite caked with molasses, butter and cream! Yummy!

In the evening, I visited Eric West and Claudia, both local kayakers in Ladle Cove. What a pleasant visit!

It's been a long day. Apparently, winds are supposed to be strong again tomorrow.

Friday:
-shop for groceries, chocolate bars and molasses buns:-)
-give radio interview with David Zelcer from CBC Radio in Gander (Aired Monday morning)
-read "Downhomer" magazine, filled with fascinating facts about Newfoundland and provided by Patsy Barbour

Saturday:
-set up camp
-share "dinner" (12 noon) with hosts Ross and Amy Gibbons
-update blog at school's principal's computer, Andy Gibbons
-take a shower
-update my personal journal
-stare at the wind and waves
-daydream

Sunday:
-do laundry
-replace torn neck gasket on drysuit
-call my dad for Father's Day
-call friends and family
-stare at the wind and waves
-go to bed early

Monday:
-go for a walk with new friend, Marie Parsons from Lumsden
-wash Goretex drysuit in bathtub and hang to dry in high wind within minutes
-go for drive with Amy to Deadman's Bay
-update blog (at principal's desk)
-update personal journal

-read Spanish phrase book
-watch the ongoings of a mink on the beach, hunting fish for her litter
-stare at the wind and waves

Tuesday:
-give interview to CBC TV from Gander both at the Gibbons' residence and at my campsite in the dunes and have Jane Adey interview and film me regarding my journey
-sun tan on the deserted beach
-sun tan in the dunes to avoid sand grains penetrating ears and nostrils
-update blog and personal journal
-visit my new friends
-BBQ with Amy and Ross Gibbons
-stare at the wind and waves

Wednesday:
-hope the winds have relented:-)

Yes, I'm still in Lumsden! And it looks like I'll be here tomorrow with more of the same strong, gusty offshore winds predicted and a heatwave to boot. At least it keeps the bugs away:-)

Thankfully, I customized my Moss Starlet tent before the trip, with lash points at the top of the tent so that the tent barely responds to these 50 km/h gusts and stronger. And since the pegs are in sand, I weighed them down with massive boulders to anchor the tent solidly. And though the wind plays tug of war with the tent, I'm situated along a most beautiful strand, with the colour of the water a deep aquamarine, similar to the colours found in the tropics.

Interestingly, every time I'm cooking a meal in the shelter of a dune, a chocolate coloured mink scuttles past along the water's edge to a pile of jumbled rocks not far from my campsite. She always returns with a fish dangling from her mouth.

I met a very amiable woman this morning, Marie Parsons. We walked together along the beach and later we shared a cup of tea on her back deck with a secluded yard surrounding us, blasts of wind knocking us about, and good conversation. She had walked from North Lumsden back to South Lumsden. With resettlement in the 1960's, the two communities were amalgamated into one and people moved off the spit of land known as North Lumsden. Lumsden itself is a community of about 700 people, but since March, 2006, more than 40 young people have left to look for work out of province, mainly Alberta. This story repeats itself to all the communities I visit, with the fishing industry barely surviving.

It appears that summer has stormed in with a blast. And so, it appears that tomorrow I'll be trying to keep myself occupied for another day in Lumsden. Days seem longer when I don't have a paddle in my hands.

I would like to personally express my gratitude to Kokatat, manufacturer of fine kayaking apparel, for sponsoring me and providing me with an Expedition drysuit as well as a MsFit Tour PFD. The garment is extremely comfortable in the multitude of conditions I have experienced along the shores of Newfoundland, as well as essential in providing protection from the elements. Their support in providing me with this gear is greatly appreciated. I wear it on a daily basis. Also, the MsFit Tour PFD is very comfortable and very practical. I enjoy the many pockets to organize essential gear on myself, and the lash tabs. Not only do I look and feel great on the water, but also, I know that I'm wearing gear that protects me effectively.

Current Designs-Wenonah also provided a deck bag and a vest. Their support is also appreciated.

Thank you to everyone who has helped to make my journey a meaningful and rewarding experience thus far.

Wendy will be resting up at a B&B in Lumsden for a day or so, as the remnants of Tropical Storm Alberto dissipate. Forecast winds are in the 40-70 knot range out of the NE, not the best for open water paddling. Cape Freels' vicious shoals apparently presented no obstacle to our Wendy, even though they extend 15 km out to sea. Considering there's nothing between Freels and Ireland but spray and foam, this must be one of the most inhospitable paddle venues on this side of the Atlantic. Well done Wendy.

Glenn

Salvage, generously donated for me to use by the amicable Lynn Ball, photojournalist of exceptional talent. I checked the lawn, even the stage from Billy Mercer, but no paddle. When I arrived at the ramp....there it was! Whew. thankfully the tide didn't grab it. I can't believe I did that.

It has been a cool, damp, grey day with fog obscuring the colourful islands. Pale grey silhouettes dotted the water around me. I took the most direct and thus most exposed route, leaving Salvage and following a 30 degree compass bearing all day. Here, the declination is 20 degrees added onto the map bearing. I passed to the east of Great Black Island, skirted to the west of Gulch Island where I found the prettiest little cove of the trip for a quick break, and then landed at Haywards Cove on Cottel Island. From there, I passed east of Popplestone Island, and followed the compass bearing of 30 degrees into fog. Eventually, land appeared and I was right on where I thought I should be.

Winds remained fairly light for the duration of the day and waves remained under a meter. I have made 4 ten kilometer crossings in 3 days. Crossings are monotonous and also stressful, as I am wary of the fickle winds.

I entered Greenspond harbour, but could not find a suitable landing place. Newfoundland is called the Rock for obvious reasons! Rain had sprinkled me on and off throughout the afternoon. Finally, sitting in my kayak, I asked a woman walking nearby for a suitable landing site. She directed me to a well hidden and sheltered beach. I pitched my tent just before it started to rain again, and then went to Ivy Tong's cosy A-frame home for coffee and conversation, and respite from the damp chilliness. Ivy has been so friendly and has shared a wealth of local knowledge about the island. Thanks, Ivy!

Greenspond was originally the capital of Bonavista Bay north, and all fishing schooners headed towards Labrador had to clear customs here. The town's population had reached 1700 but now only a fraction remains, perhaps 400. The population has grown in the last decade as the island was connected to the mainland with a causeway in 1983. A very old, historic court house caught my attention as I paddled around looking for a landing place. The school has 6 students attending! Greenspond is one of the oldest communities of Newfoundland. If it stops raining or if I become weather bound, I'll go explore by foot.

I'll have to carefully monitor the weather conditions for the next leg. I will be approaching Cape Freels, and the approach is riddled with rocks and shoals. Patience.

Another incredible day! I rose early, well rested in a warm, dry twine shed in Keels, surveyed the sea and decided to head out against a moderate wind. As usual, the wind did a 180 on me. I was making a 12 km crossing towards Salvage. The southwest wind died, and then a stronger northeast wind stirred up. During the crossing, I heard a "whoosh". I looked carefully, and saw the almost invisible plume of spray from a minke whale. The whale was about 100 m to the port side of my kayak.

With choppy seas and the thought of another 20 km of paddling into headwinds that could easily grow in strength, I decided to pull into the sheltered harbour of Salvage. What a beautiful village, with numerous stages sitting on weathered posts on the water. As I was approaching Salvage, a small fishing boat zoomed up to me to check that I was ok. It was Bill Mercer and companion. When I arrived in the harbour, I found Bill unloading his catch of crabs. His wife Michelle replenished my water supply, and Bill gave permission to stay in his storage shed. As I was eating lunch, Lynn Ball, a semi-retired photojournalist from London, Ontario (That's where I'm from!), invited me to stay in his house that he rents out to vacationers! How unbelievable. I have a million dollar view over a picturesque fishing village, where crab, capelin, and a small amount of cod are caught. Lynn has recently published a book of his extraordinary photos taken over a lifetime as a photojournalist, including stunning images of numerous dignataries. www.presspass.ca

The only moment of the day that totally annoyed me was when my latex neck gasket ripped...again, for the second time on this trip. Though I am extremely careful, and wear no sharp jewelry, I have managed to blow two gaskets in under a month and a half.

High winds are predicted for tomorrow. It wouldn't be so bad to be stranded in a humble abode all for myself. I'm off for a walk. Who knows what I'll find as I continue my journey on foot? I wish to thank Lynn for his generosity. The hospitality extended to me continues to be mind boggling. I am blessed and am truly glad that I have chosen to go "Round the Rock"!

Sunday was a rest day in Bonavista. By that, I mean I didn't kayak. Rather, I walked about 20 km! The town is a beautiful seaside community with numerous historic homes, and the caravel the Matthew, which was sailed into Bonavista in the summer of 1997, to commemorate John Cabot's landing 500 years earlier. I also walked to the Cape Bonavista lighthouse, which I'd passed on dancing waves on Saturday.

The Harbour View B&B in Bonavista, run lovingly by Florence and Albert Little, was a wonderful place to rest up...and fuel up! Breakfast was a three course meal, and what sets this B&B apart from others I have visited, is the late night snack offered each evening; fresh crab and homemade berry pies, as well as fun conversation and lots of Newfoundland folklore thrown in.

This morning, I departed in moderate headwinds towards Blackhead Bay, at the south east tip of Bonavista Bay. I found an idyllic, sheltered cove with the perfect landing pebble beach, and a lacy waterfall plummeting to the beach right behind my kayak. What a lovely place, but I continued onwards.

I crossed Blackhead Bay on small beam waves. It was a short crossing compared to some I made, but I paddled with focus and was relieved to reach the far side as storm clouds were rolling in. I saw few birds today. I decided to stop early, at Keels, about a 25 km paddle. I pulled ashore, and a local named Joe gave me the fish twine shed to "camp" in. The wind is blowing and ominous clouds scud across the sky, but I have my unique accommodation for the evening.

As I walked through Keels this evening, population 70, everyone I met asked me, "Are you the lady kayaking around Newfoundland?" Word sure spreads quickly in these small communities.

With a late start, I departed from Little Catalina at around 11 in the morning. I lingered over a leisurely breakfast with Dr. Beamish and Christine. I also had use of a computer. Driving back to Little Catalina with my kayak on a boat trailer, we talked about being in the present and we listened to Josh Groven music, "You Raise Me Up", powerful lyrics and emotionally charged music.

I paddled for a few kilometers into a headwind, but once around the headland, I headed northeast with a southeast tailwind. Near land, the water danced a wild jig and the kayak thought it was a bucking bronco, but crossing bays, waves shoved me north towards Cape Bonavista.

At Maberly, I was surrounded by thousands of swirling puffins, wings in rapid motion, or bobbing colourfully on the flowing waves. Fog came and went, drifting.

Near Cape Bonavista, waves often two meters in height rolled beneath my kayak. There were times when I needed to brace, but the kayak galloped to another cape. Rounding the cape, I passed a small island that is considered to be the land nearest to Europe when following the great circle route by ships and planes.

I had a few minutes of respite in the lee of the cliffs. But as soon as I headed southwards, I experienced a formidable headwind. The paddle was indeed a slog, but I'm feeling so strong and every stroke is dug in with all my strength.

By Bonavista, I was happy to set foot ashore. And for the first time in the circumnavigation, I'm staying at a B&B, the Harbour View B&B, overlooking the harbour and the Matthew, a replica boat that John Cabot used to arrive in Newfoundland over 500 years ago.

I was surprised to find the public library open from 7 to 9 at night on a Saturday, so here I am, at the computer updating "Round the Rock".

Wendy called this evening while I was out paddling, she left a message saying she traveled nearly 60km today after a 5:30 am start. Her crossing of Trinity Bay from Hant's Harbour to Random Head was done in a moderate cross wind, with some headwinds. She said the scenery is incredible!
She is currently in Dunfield, and sounds strong.

Glenn

Wendy is staging up for her crossing of Trinity Bay, here's her quick update:

Hi Glenn,

I'm in Hant's Harbour, ready to cross when the conditions feel right. It's supposed to be
easterly winds tomorrow, shoving me the right way, but a bit strong, about 25 to 30 km
per hour. I'll judge the weather carefully before I cross. I'll head for Random Island.

Oh, those capricious winds! I'd started at 7:30 with a light tailwind and a great surprise! Just as I'd started up the Whisperlite stove, Alex Wheadon appeared with breakfast! He helped me tote my kayak and gear and watched me make a good launch into a subsiding surf at Northern Bay.

But, the tailwinds turned and became formidable headwinds. I paddled with all my might and arrived at the "Backside" of Bay de Verde. That meant, landing on boulders and dragging my gear up a grassy cliff. Thankfully, I have a warm home at the residence of Paul Emberley, where my soaked gear is drying. Last night there were torrential rains and oppressive humidity!

Bay de Verde is a colourful community with a large green harbour. Let's hope the winds will not be so unpredictable tommorrow.

With eventful days, one flowing into the next, I decided to sleep in when I read that the weather forecast predicted heavy rain. "Sleeping in" means 7:45. I awoke to fog, not rain, and a very wet sleeping bag from the high humidity.

I walked about 2 km to Dawn Puddester's home in North Bay, where I had a standing invitation to return if I stayed for the day, and thus, I dried my wet bag in the dryer. I also updated my journal, not my blog, something I'd neglected for three days. I've been meeting so many kind people, and days are pretty full with conversation, paddling, setting up camp, and recording my journey.

I haven't decided whether I'll get on the water today, but the comfort of a warm, dry home has me procrastinating. I'm enjoying being lazy today!

Funny thing happened last night at the payphone near my tent. I'd tried calling my mother to alleviate her concerns about my whereabouts, but got no answer. So I called Glenn who updates my blog for me on occasions when I can't. As soon as I put the phone's receiver down, the phone rang, so I answered it. It was my mom! :-)

I appreciate all the kindness and hospitality people have given me, and also the support and encouragement from everyone who reads my blog "Round the Rock". Thanks for your support! Special thanks to Justine Curgenven who hosts a link to the blog at http://www.cackletv.com/ and Derrick Mayoleth who created the blog for me. Also special thanks to Glenn MacKay who updates the blog and supports my expeditions with his words of encouragement and his family too, for hosting me enroute to this expedition. A REALLY big thanks to Freya Hoffmeister for having been such a great and inspiring paddling partner. I had a blast paddling with you, Freya!! And of course my family back at home, for their love and support.

She's okay. No harm to her faithful Solstice GTS either, thank heavens. Wendy called from Northern Sands Provincial Park to let us all know she's safe after an eventful crossing of Conception Bay today. The weather was perfect for the crossing from Pouch (pronounced "pooch") Cove to Northern Sands on the northwest arm of the Avalon Peninsula. About halfway across, Wendy met up with some crab fishermen who kindly gave her two large specimens for her supper. She continued on, mouth watering at the thought of the tasty treat awaiting and trying not to look her bungeed dinner in the eyes as she paddled. As luck will have it, the wind came up for the final leg of her journey, and she ended up having to hazard a nasty surf landing to reach the shelter of her destination cove at Northern Bay.
One thing led to another, and although she was side-surfing well and braced into the wave, Wendy's kayak struck bottom bow first and pitchpoled her onto the sloping shore. Goodbye supper, the crabs scuttled for home. While Wendy set up her camp, a passerby named Alex Wheadon came to investigate, and in true Newfoundland style set off to round her up some delicious fish and chips the likes of which cannot be found anywhere else on the planet.
Also in line with Atlantic Canadian hospitality, the Park authority refused to accept any camping fees after hearing of Wendy's travels and troubles. Thanks folks!
Also, Wendy said she's grateful once again to Kokatat for supplying her with one of their fine drysuits, it definitely eased the severity of her situation today.
Wendy asked me to extend a special thank-you to Neil Burgess and Isabelle Hubert, who hosted her in St. John's and gave her the run of their palatial home during her stay there. Patsy Brown, a paddler of renown, accompanied Wendy to a live theatrical performance of "Ann and Seamus" at Memorial University, and Wendy was intrigued by the histoic tale of the heroine of Isle Aux Morts who saved many souls with her lifeboat on the heavy seas so near Wendy's departure point of May 5th.
She was also delighted to paddle with Alex McGruer, Linda Bartlett and Ralph Smith while in St. John's. I understand Ralph had his first open ocean paddle and lucked into fine weather and calm seas. They were even fortunate enough to have a minke whale surface just 3 metres from Linda's boat!

Their trip ended at the derelict 100' wooden slipway near Pouch Cove, where Alex' kayak decided to return to the home stable without him. Wendy capably returned his mount to him. I'm afraid that's going to cost him a cold Black Horse next time they meet...
Once again the forecast is dismal, so Wendy may sit tight the next day or so. She also assures us that she will take a more inland route on the next two major crossings, Trinity and Bonavista Bays.
Stay safe Wendy!

-Glenn

It's Justine here. Thanks to Michael Shaffer for forwarding these photos of Wendy leaving St Johns this morning, with some local paddlers. Michael sent me ( justine) these photos and said '! had the pleasure of meeting Wendy this morning just before her and friends got into their kayaks for leaving the St.John's area via Quidi Vidi harbor. I happened to be there just for my own photography, but was able to capture some good pics as she paddled out to sea".

On June 1, I woke up not only to a new month, but also frost on my tent. Luckily though, my paddling suit and clothes were completely dry and the wind was still sleeping. I was on the water just around 7:30. It takes precisely two hours to wake up and disassemble camp and bring the kayak to water's edge and load it.

I'd had little sleep. Wednesday evening, while walking back to my campsite on the beach at Witless Bay, Peter Sobol, a local potter and artist, invited me to visit his beautiful home and to meet his equally creative wife, Mary. Their home overlooks Bear's Cove and Witless Bay. What an extraordinary evening. I was privileged to visit his studio and to see his creative endeavours, paintings with local flavour and pottery, many of fairies. Conversation flowed with a bottle of shared wine, and before I knew it, it was well past my usual 9 p.m. bedtime! Expeditioning is tiring indeed!

Back on the water, I departed on a glass mirror. I paddled with vigour, trying to cover distance before the predicted 30 km per hour winds stirred. I hugged the shore, not desiring to be out by the islands only to get strong offshore blasts. The shore was beautiful but imposing. Steep cliffs dropped dramatically to water's edge. Cliff tops are now covered by forests of coniferous trees. The tundra landscape has disappeared. The perspective from a kayak always offers a unique vantage. Now I could see the caves at the base of the cliffs. I'd hiked the East Coast Trail in 2000, but seeing the landscape from the land perspective is very different than seeing it from a distance in my kayak from the sea.

The water was calm enough that I explored a bigger cave, backing my kayak carefully into the dank darkness, listening to the thuds of swells hitting the end of the cave. Entering the cave, the reek of guano filled my nostrils as gulls squawked in circles above me, with plops of excrement raininng down in dollops, splattering the water.

I saw the Spout, a blow hole along the East Coast Trail that hikers enjoy between Petty Harbour and Bay Bulls.

The wind had picked up. It was a tailwind, and by Motion Head, the kayak was galloping and bucking like a feisty horse. I met Cape Spear in the fog, as the fog horn blasted its horn so loudly that it vibrated in my ears like I'd been to a heavy metal concert. Cape Spear is Canada's most eastern point, bringing in a new day before any other place in this magnificent land.

I'd entered St. John's Harbour, the city completely hidden from view from the sea's perspective, and landed on a boulder beach near the entrance, opposite Signal Hill and the Cabot Tower. I decided to continue a few kilometers to Quidi Vidi, and brave the gut into a sheltered harbour, but conditions were mellow, and no wild and crazy smash-up surf stories, like Alex McGruer's ensued.

Neil Burgess, president of Kayak Newfoundland and Labrador, picked me up and brought me to an old, large home within the colourful heart of St. John's, where I was given a room fit for a princess, but apparently the princess of this house is Wiggles, the friendly black cat, who has had many interesting smells to explore, emanating from my Ikea bags (given to me by Freya) filled with soaking wet gear.

Isabelle, Neil's friend, Neil, Josee and myself indulged in a curry dinner at an Indian restaurant before meeting up with the KNL folks at the Guvnor's Pub near Memorial University. It was a fun filled evening of conversation and laughter, and Ralphie Boy (Ralph Smith) had brought along his camera to capture the evening and to sidle next to me! And Dan Miller has offered the use of a cabin on Change Islands. And Patsy Brown will be meeting me this afternoon. And everyone had a pleasant time. What a great group of folks and what a marvellous paddling community.

My day is winding up, but that will be another entry!

Hi, there!

This is finally Freya speaking, being safe and sound back home!

Sorry it took me some days to get this published, but I had only one night at home, and then headed out again to a German symposium, teaching G-style rolls until Sunday 28th.
I think I caught a slight cold, standing in the North Sea water three days for about 8 hrs, although I thought I was used to the *really* cold water from Newfoundland...but at least I wasn't swimming in NF :-) !


More pictures are uploaded on "webshots". Any questions are welcome...
http://community.webshots.com/album/550954068UzhHdO



So, what's *my* story about those two women paddling together in Newfoundland, who never met before, besides frequent e-mailing and three phone calls?
And got this friendship started with a nice e-mail from Wendy, as she saw my "last glance" picture in Sea Kayaker Magazine, and read my profile on my website http://www.qajaqunderground.com/freya/ ??

How can you do this, I was frequently asked when I talked about my plans - paddling with someone on such a remote coast, without having met her and knowing more about her?


Female intuition... :-)), and that was right, as usual...

There are only few chances offered in life where you should just be spontaneous!


One night before I was heading off to teaching in New Zealand in March, Wendy told me on her second phone call she'll be really *doing it* THIS YEAR already, what about she was fantasizing already on e-mails before:
Circumnavigating the "Rock"....going for a *real* life change combined with that journey...not only *talking* about future dreams forever (like most people do)...but just ENVISIONING a new goal, GOING for it and DOING it.

I liked her attitude! Deep in my heart I felt she was matching me and the stage of life we were both in.

She welcomed me to join her on the NF trip, for parts or all of it.


I felt a bit sorry that my life didn't provide me more *continuous* time in one piece to go for the whole journey (ok, ok, I really can't complain about not having enough spare time... :-)) ), but shops and kid still call me home after a few weeks.
Staying awake after her call until 3am, thinking..., I decided to join Wendy at the beginning of Mai, for at least a little piece of "The Rock", the remote South coast.


Booking my flight to Newfoundland being on the airport waiting to fly off to New Zealand, things seemed to continue being exciting in my life!!!

I love the life on the fast track, making plans for the next trips already whilst being on a current trip...somehow tough, as the enjoyment of the current trip should be lived fully, too.

But having NO future plans on your mind makes you standing still, and standing still is usually the first step going backwards...


To be honest, I've never been on a longer kayaking trip than a week, and I never went on a trip with a woman only...

That first time I paddled continuously for 17 days was an interesting experience to listen to what your body and mind are telling you when they are getting pushed over the limits...
...and I feel I WANT LONGER TRIPS!!! :-))
Let's see what life will bring in future...


I experienced paddling with a woman partner has many advantages, and I enjoyed that very much in different ways.

Wendy was a great kayaking and camp partner!

She's a lovely and lively person, with almost unlimited endurance for paddling all day for a long period of time. Gifted with a flexible and spontaneous mind, she's always curious about what's waiting behind the next corner...and that keeps her exciting, and going on for new experiences in life.
No complaining, no moaning if conditions weren't favourite, she always stayed positive with a smile and laugh, and all possibly mistakes we made were just added to the lifelong learning process.

She loves the sea, she loves the nature, she loves to meet people, and she loves the LIFE!
(But against all rumours we both still love MEN... :-) which for sure were frequently discussed in all details :-)) )


I really enjoyed kayaking with her, felt we had the same "wavelength", and would always go for another opportunity to meet her and paddle with her again!


I wish her well, having an exciting trip for the next weeks, hope she'll see more of the stunning nature, meet lots of interesting people, and that she'll stay SAFE!


Thanks to all the nice people supporting and hosting us along the way, especially Glenn, Rick and Chris driving me back and forth to the airport, and dealing with my bags. And to Glenn again who did the updates of our trip.

"Thank you" to Justine, hosting us on this blog! Women power... :-))

And...yes, Derrick, a big "thanks" to you first, as without you this blog and our websites wouldn't exist :-)


Freya Hoffmeister