1. This journey, "Round the Rock", is sponsored by Kokatat and by Wenonah-Current Designs.

2.I spent 68 days paddling about 2700 km. This means I paddled about 39.7 km per day when I paddled.

3. I spent 104 days circumnavigating the Rock, including both paddling days and non-paddling days.

4. 56 nights were spent camping (though many of those nights I declined the use of a spare room.) and 48 nights were spent in homes.

5. The longest paddle occurred on May 11 with 17.5 hours of travel covering 80 km from Gulch Cove to Pass Island along the south shore.

6. The shortest paddle was from St. David's to Highlands on August 11, covering about 10 km. (It was the day I almost was hit by lightning.)

7. My longest land delay occurred at Lumsden from June 15 to June 20.

8. My longest open water crossing was across Placentia Bay from Merasheen to Great Barasway, covering 40 km.

9. The start and finish of the circumnavigation was in Isle Aux Morts.

10. People I paddled with are Freya Hoffmeister, Ralph Smith, Linda Bartlett, and Alex McGruer.

Wendy called this evening to tell me she's home safely, after a 3-day drive to London Ontario. To put her Newfoundland trip in perspective, she reports that this marathon drive was 1,000 km short of the distance she paddled 'Round the Rock!

Her home suffered a lightning strike while she was away and although there was no other damage, her computers were all ossified by the blast. She regrets not being able to post directly, but will be back online soon.

On a personal note, I'm glad Wendy had the good grace to paddle the Ecum Secum area of Nova Scotia with our kayak club the day after her return to the mainland. Our members were deeply appreciative of her company, and I pointed out to Wendy that although I could not normally get their attention for more than a few seconds supposing I had a nuclear-powered bullhorn, she was able to quiet them and hold them in rapt thrall with but a whispered word about her oddyssey. And so it should be, what an accomplishment!

I finally browsed through Wendy's latest collection of photos from her epic journey, and I was staggered at the beauty, the geography, the people of Newfoundland. Wendy has an amazing eye for photography, and there are more than a few prize-winners among the hundreds of shots she took. Like this one:


The list of folks to thank for their support is beyond my ken, I'm sure Wendy will do just that shortly. I'd like to personally thank Justine Curgenven and Derrick Mayoleth for allowing me to participate in this great undertaking by hosting this blog spot for Wendy.

Glenn MacKay
Pictou County Paddle & Oar club
Nova Scotia Canada

I booked the ferry to leave Newfoundland on Friday. I'll be crossing the Cabot Strait to North Sydney, Nova Scotia. It will be the first time in over 3.5 months that I won't be on the Rock.

CBC Radio in St. John's interviewed me and the interview aired at noon on August 17. The website with the interview can be found at: http://www.cbc.ca/radionoonnl/interview_archives/2006_aug_w3.html (item #5)

Sometimes, the ending can't come soon enough, like when a free spirit like myself is counting the days until summer holiday from the walls of my classroom. Other times, I like it when endings linger, watching a sunset until the last vestiges of sun light have long disappeared. But my kayak journey around Newfoundland, the ending seems surreal at this moment and certainly is bittersweet. Are those long days of paddling in solitude truly over? Will I remember all the places, faces and experiences of the journey? But all good things must come to an end as the cliche goes.

Soon, I'll be visiting Glenn MacKay and family and meeting paddlers from the Pictou County Paddle and Oar Club. I'm looking forward to that.

Today, I visited a few nearby communities by car with picture postcard clouds filling the sky. This area, Isle Aux Morts and Harbour Le Cou/ Rose Blanche, celebrated homecoming. It is a huge celebration which occurs within a community about once every ten years to bring Newfoundlanders who left the province back to their homes of youth. It is highly attended. Streamers fluttered everywhere, as well as "Welcome" flags, snapping loudly in the high winds today. Party lights festooned many porches. Celebrations are just over. As I drove over the winding roadway, I appreciated the distant panoramic views which Freya Hoffmeister and I paddled in early May. The south shore was wild today, with strong southwesterly winds once again blowing a refreshing breeze on land. I enjoyed taking colourful photographs of these communities, with many brightly painted homes and stages on stilts over the water, tucked behind rocks.

I have come full circle, ending exactly where I started at the public dock in Isle Aux Morts. I have absorbed the essence of Newfoundland now for 3 1/2 months, both on the sea and on land. It is an unforgettable experience, too vast to summarize briefly here, a journey that started on May 5, 2006 and ended August 16, 2006.

I found my car parked where I left it, well cared for, ocassionally driven to keep it working ok. Thanks to Russell and Blanche Lillington from Isle Aux Morts.

Last night, I bedded down in my tent in a storm, high wind, sheets of rain, and flickers of lightning, the rumbles drowned by the roaring surf only 20 meters distant. But when I awoke, there was a hushed calm. The day dawned glorious and unexpectedly. I had psyched myself up for a Thursday paddle.

I paddled with a purpose, the finish line. I could savour the end, but I'm feeling tired. The journey has been demanding, but I have met the challenges. I learned how strong I am, not just physically, but mentally and also emotionally. I realize that I was brave on many ocassions and that I was creative, spontaneous and adaptable. I was focussed and persistent and tried to see the positive in all that happened.

Today, I started in calm water with a gentle southwesterly swell. I paddled away from the Colliers in Codroy in warm sunshine and barely a breeze whispering. Soon, following Stormy Point, where shoals extend quite a distance out, a fog enveloped me, but not a suffocating fog. By Cape Ray, the fog had dissipated, and I approached the final cape in sunshine and light southwesterly breezes. At this cape, the Gulf Stream and the Labrador Current meet. I enjoyed large swells but rounded the cape easily. Approaching Pointe Enragee, sand beaches stretched over 8 km in length. I was on huge swells. I stayed well clear of the crashing surf, but at one point, quite unexpectedly, I stared horrified at a 4 meter rogue swell that steepened into a wave that towered directly overhead, looking as though it was going to whitecap and bulldoze me. Thankfully, it rolled beneath me lifting me like I was on a rollercoaster.

I paddled well sheltered at Port Aux Basques, watching people along the channel enjoy the summer weather.

When I approached Isle Aux Morts, I actually did slow down briefly, and ate a juicy Granny apple, the tart flavour swishing through my mouth as a light tailwind blew me towards the dock. The end was literally in sight. As I arrived at the dock, I attracted a half dozen male onlookers. Of course I put them to work;-) toting my gear to my car and lifting my kayak onto the roofrack. I'd paddled 60 km in about 9.5 hours.

I'm now resting for a couple of days at Lillington's house keeping units in Isle Aux Morts, the same place I was in on the first day of the journey, a cool, windy, foggy day back in early May.

After some thought and reflection, I'll continue to post.

I do wish to sincerely thank all my supporters and blog readers who sent words of praise and encouragement. Thank you also to Kokatat for sponsoring me with my expedition Gore-Tex drysuit. The weather was varied and the suit was invaluable. Thank you also to Wenonah-Current Designs for also sponsoring me with a few useful accessories.

Gale force winds buffetted me as I walked to the Codroy Cafe and along the path next to the shore. Angry waves rolled against the shore, reminding me that I need to continue to play the waiting game.

I enjoyed another land day by contacting a few new friends I made while paddling "Round the Rock". It put a huge smile on my face. And though the journey is nearing completion, and I feel both the highs and lows of such a journey, the positive influence from family and newfound friends will help me reach Isle Aux Morts with a huge smile on my face!

At the Codroy Cafe, a cozy place about a kilometer's walk from my well anchored "Moss Starlet" tent, I unexpectedly met Susy from the ketch "Fortune of Boston". She's such a hoot. We can't stop gabbing and giggling like teenaged girls with our animated conversations of present and past adventures and misadventures.

We walked in the gale force wind to the Cape Anguille lighthouse, my loose, shoulder length hair flailing madly, enjoying the rural setting with sheep, goats, horses, and a mule. It felt wild to be so exposed to the roaring wind, but I felt safe to be on land, waiting yet again patiently for my chance to paddle to the finish.

I awoke to the drumming of rain pounding the tent. Southwest winds were predicted to become strong and thus I chose to stay put.

I visited Upper Ferry and had breakfast at Joe's Cafe with Bernie Howgate before he continued on to Port Aux Basques to promote the sales of his books on his adventures, including his around the world 8 year cycling adventure, his Labrador adventure, his kayaking adventure along the lower North Shore of the St. Lawrence River and his kayaking adventure around Newfoundland. He's a colourful character and it was very interesting for me to meet another circumnavigator of the Rock.

I spent the afternoon reading and relaxing. I'm trying to use my land time as beneficially as possile. Today I chose to rest and take it easy so I'll have energy to try and push to Isle Aux Morts in one long paddle of about 60 km.

I received a supper invitation from Susy Worzencraft and Jack Quinn on his 35 foot sailboat. We laughed and shared tales of adbventure. They have circumnavigated Newfoundland by sailboat this summer and had a great adventure also. Susy "screeched" me. I sat on the rear deck watching the sunset in the company of some really fun people. Thanks to Susy and Jack.

I'm still camped on the lawn of Craig and Nancy Collier. Thanks to this wonderful couple who celebrated their 6th wedding anniversary today.

And strong southwesterly winds are predicted for tomorrow. Patience is a virtue!

Today the Gulf was a sea of whitecaps smashing into the rocky shore with spindrift flying off the waves like a horse's mane flowing in the wind. I used the day to go on an exploration of the area by foot. I walked to the Cape Anguille lighthouse which is operated as an inn. Nobody was there, and I sat at a picnic table updating my journal and watching cars reach the end of the road, stop momentarily and take the obligatory photo of the lighthouse and immediately driving onwards.


I walked towards Cape Anguille, watching the mighty waves surge with power, smashing the cliffs and shooting skywards in a dramatic plume of spray. What a difference a day makes and I couldn't imagine myself on such a wild sea. The cape had been friendly to me.

I inspected flowers, sun dews and pitcher plants. I noticed how the seasons are changing, the pink fireweeds being replaced by yellow tansies and goldenrods.

I spent a lazy afternoon in sunshine sitting in the vestibule of my tent on Nancy and Craig Collier's lawn, watching thunder clouds build on the western horizon, reading Bernie Howgate's book "Around the Rock in a Bad Mood", thanks to challenging weather conditions. I cooked supper on the rocks on the beach and just as I was packing up, I met a British lady who had heard of me! Her name is Susy Worzencraft who is sailing around Newfoundland. Her story can be read at www.susysrunningawaytosea.blogspot.com . We shared lots of laughter and interesting conversation, and as we sat on a bench in the sun beside the sea, Bernie Howgate arrived unexpectedly! He paddled around Newfoundland in 2000 and thus we had lots of tales to share. We spent the evening sitting on the Collier's deck watching the sun set and talking up a storm.

Southwest winds are expected for Monday. I'll decide what to do when I check the weather in the morning.

I paddled like a possessed woman! After a restless night in the smelly fishing shed with hundreds of lobster pots stacked in neat piles around me, I launched from Harbour Beach in Highlands at 6:45 on placid water covered in splatter art from the deluge of rain that accompanied me for the next several hours. I am thankful for my expedition Gore-tex drysuit from Kokatat which keeps me paddling comfortably "Round the Rock".

My Epic wing blade spun like a windmill, putting kilometers easily behind me on the calm St. George's Bay. I felt like I'd found newfound confidence, but yesterday's close call with lightning had me frazzled and visibly upset. Today, I paddled with conviction but was glad that the few people I called yesterday had boosted my confidence. Thank you mama, Graham, Marjorie, and Glenn.

The steep red cliffs dropped from the Anguille Mountains, covered in waterfalls, thin, trickles, veil-like falls gushing exuberantly and thundering waterfalls plummetting from dizzying heights. Many gulches along the route made navigation using my 1:250000 topo map easy and provided emergency landing sites if necessary. Jack Harris from St. David's, had given me accurate advice on my paddling route and loaned his nautical chart for perusal.

For about two hours, I had 4 or 5 seals accompany me, peeking curiously and sliding silently under the water, or smacking the water hurriedly when I came too close. Often I heard a loud "whump" right behind me, but my hood blocked my vision.

Eventually, the rain gave up and overcast conditions changed to partly sunny skies with the predicted northeast wind blowing at 15 knots. I crossed spectacular Snakes Bight, where folded sedimentary layers of gray and black rock made impressive cliffs with innumerable waterfalls. I headed for Cape Anguille and then paddled around George Point where the lighthouse is situated.

The winds were in my favour, urging me to finish this paddle easily with a smile on my face. I'd been told that Codroy is the most beautiful place in Newfoundland, and indeed it is a lovely town nestled up against the Anguille Mountains. I could see Cape Ray as I was rounding Codroy Island. The end is almost visible! This ending will be bitter sweet.

As I arrived at a cobble beach in Codroy, Pius Anderson helped me haul my gear and kayak up onto the lawn above. I'm presently camped on Craig and Nancy Collier's lawn. Bernie Howgate had arrived precisely here in 2000 when he made his circumnavigation of Newfoundland. His book of his adventure, "Around the Rock in a Bad Mood", can be ordered online at www.berniehowgate.com .

I sigh an enormous sigh of relief. Cape Anguille had loomed daunting and I am happy to be in beautiful Codroy and around this exposed cape safely.

Cape Anguille continues to frustrate our Wendy, as she came ashore in the village of Highlands after only 8km on the water today. I just got off the 'phone with her, and she admitted to some anxiety, particularly after experiencing a near lightning strike. Seems her intuition was niggling at her, even though the forecast was acceptable for an attempt at rounding the Cape this morning. She heeded her inner warnings and exited the water at Highlands instead, but was beating herself up for not making the attempt. Wendy went for a walk, feeling a little ashamed at having set up her tent so early in the day, when there was a bright flash and an instantaneous boom. Her emotions rose to the surface, and tears mingled with raindrops at the thought of what might have happened had she stayed out.
Afer three months on the Atlantic, it seems her "weather sense" is indeed fully developed!
She called just now from the home of Wanda Quilty, who apparently makes "the best lemon meringue pie in Newfoundland". Wendy will spend a lonely night tonight in a fishing shed and will take another shot at the Cape in the morning if the current forecast (15 knot tailwinds) holds true. She says the Western Coast has been the most difficult, and each day has been like a game of Russian Roullette as she places her faith in the weather forecasts.
Yesterday was an idyllic paddling day according to Wendy, with water like glass despite the nasty winds forecast. She rose as usual at 5:00 am, and under the bright light of a full moon made her preparations to go. High wispy clouds added to the ethereal quality of her departure from the village of St. Davids where she had enjoyed the great company of Gwen Lawson. Wendy says her animated conversation with Gwen, along with a beer and a nap under the sun the previous day was like a tonic for her.
Thank you Gwen, thank you Wanda, for your gifts of hospitality and the restorative balm they provide.
All for now, Wendy says if we don't hear from her in the next few days we'll know she's holed up in some cove somewhere, waiting out the weather. She acquired some priceless information regarding safe havens on the Cape from local fishermen. Personally, I'll feel a whole lot better if I hear from her on the telephone tomorrow night, jubilant at being safe and sound in Codroy.

Glenn

Glenn here:

Once again I am working from rather sketchy notes, copied by my 15 year old son. Since his 'phone conversation with Wendy this evening did not involve girls, tattoos or guitars, the details may be a little sparse.
Wendy is in Fischells, camped out on a lawn for the night. Her hosts are Gordon and Amelia Brown. She wants to express her thanks again to the Rumbolt family for so kindly giving her free rein of their home while they were away. Also, Wendy is grateful to Dan and Graham for helping her get under way this morning. -Thanks guys!
Hopefully Wendy will give us some details on the Stephenville to Fischells trip at her next internet stop, which will not be until after she rounds the desolate Anguille Mountain range and Cape Anguille itself. Keep a good thought folks, this is one rugged piece of coastline.
Go Wendy!

Glenn MacKay

The marine forecast for tommorrow predicts light to moderate northeasterly winds. It looks like I'll hopefully be on my way once again.

Today, I awoke to a lumpy sea and the soft continuous roar in the distance of surf battering the beach, along with driving rain with fog. It was a day where I was thankful that I was sheltered in the Rumbolts' home, and not hunkered in my small tent on a windy, wet beach of cobbles. At least I was able to accomplish some necessary errands.

I must thank Graham Oliver and Marjorie Robertson for their hospitality. They are friends of the Rumbolts and invited me to supper. Again, conversation was lively and enjoyable and supper delicious. I also had the opportunity to meet one of their lovely daughters. Graham detailed the upcoming route with me, sharing his knowledge of the coastline which he has kayaked. Helpful advice is always appreciated.

So with some optimism, I hopefully will be one day closer to closing the gap tommorrow.

Wind whistles again through the tree tops on this August day at gale force, a relentless reminder that I'm a sea kayaker practicing patience and respect for the sea. A tempestuous sea rolls wave after strong, white capping wave in a spray of unfurled power onto the gravel beach. It is a land day. Again the sea is too omnipotent. I am chomping at the bit to complete this journey with 165 kilometers remaining to be paddled. I can see Cape Anguille from this vantage point, a destination no that far from Isle Au Morts, my final destination, and the place where I initially launched on May 5, 2006.

Meanwhile, I sat comfortably on the deck of the Rumbolts', a family gone for the long weekend, but who has trusted me with their home after briefly meeting me. This is Newfoundland. I sat writing in warm sunshine, sheltered from the blasting wind. I sat beside flower boxes with draping petunias and verbena. The day provided me quiet time to start to internalize this extraordinary experience. I wrote an article for the Great Lakes Sea Kayaking Association's newsletter, "Qajaq", and for Kayak Newfoundland and Labrador's newsletter, "Ebb and Flow". I am a member of both kayaking associations. There is merit in being a member of a paddling association, supporting the sport that many of us are so passionate about.

About 165 km remain to be paddled.

It has been a remarkable day on land. I awoke to pouring rain and strong wind.

I breakfasted with the Rumbolt family in Stephenville after a great sleep following a night at the pub, Clancy's. Stephenville is an interesting location, with the American military base here from World War 2 and an airstrip which can accommodate the landing of the space shuttle.

I have also had the opportunity to spend time with Graham Oliver and his lovely wife Marjorie Robertson. I had a most enjoyable supper, with conversation that flowed easily for hours and was stimulating. Both are keen outdoor enthusiasts and very personable people. Thank you to Graham and Marjorie. The arduous paddling days have been balanced with such interesting experiences on land, enriching my journey beyond what I envisioned. Learning about Newfoundland, I hear the story of this island from everyone's perspective. Newfoundland is a place filled with spirit and vitality. But the story is always unfolding. I may be paddling "Round the Rock", and it is a challenging journey, but the people are enduring and genuine.

With good paddling conditions and plenty of warm sunshine, I made it to Stephenville today. I stopped here as I had a few errands to run, including finding a new inner tube for my tire in my kayak trolley that got a flat this morning.

I had set up camp on the beach on the outskirts of Stephenville, and then went for a walk into town. I saw a truck with a kayak on the roof rack, and asked about directions to the post office. I had the pleasure of meeting Dan and Betty Rumbolt and their two lovely daughters who were headed out for a short paddle this afternoon. Dan and Betty have offered me a place to stay and we shared great conversation and a delicious taco meal this evening. The people of Newfoundland never cease to amaze me. Newfoundland has a special place in my heart, for many reasons.

Glenn here, Wendy reported in by 'phone this evening to say she's Ok, and camped comfortably in Fox Island River. She's at the home of Mickey and Bev Hines, and wants to say thanks to them here for their hospitality.
Wendy tells me she was glad to be off the water at the end of the day, as the winds picked up to 25-30 knots and the seas were building dramatically despite the calm forecast. She says the scenery along the coast is spectacular, especially the mountains. Her faithful Solstice GTS is starting to show some wear and tear she reports, with at least one duct tape gelcoat repair and a duct tape keel strip.
Wendy wants to mention also that although she maintains a positive outlook, this trip has been anything but a piece of cake. She said that she has certainly eaten a lot of it (the cake) though!

All for now, keep a good thought for Wendy,
Glenn

"A good breeze", that's what Lee Sheppard called the gale that blew through Lark Harbour this morning. As a result, with whirly gigs spinning at warp speed, Janice and Lee Sheppard and I went for a visit to Cornerbrook. Winds funneled down the Humber Arm, but I replaced my "lost" memory card for my Pentax Optio WPI digital camera, a waterproof camera with 6 megapixel, which rests tethered in a pocket against my bosom in my MsFit Tour Kokatat PFD throughout this journey for opportunities for on water pics at a quick touch of the shutter release. I've been impressed with this small but capable camera.

I also visited "The Bulk Barn", a paddler's paradise for filling the hatches with nutritious foods. Here I found dried cantaloupe, nuts, chocolate and a cornucupia of delectable snacks.

Back in Lark Harbour, Janice and Lee treated me to stewed moose meat which Lee had hunted last fall, a gamey tasting meat that I found very tasty. Thank you again, Janice and Lee!

On the news today was the Royal St. John's Regatta, a rowing event which has been occurring on Quidi Vidi Lake since 1818. It is the oldest sporting event in North America. Winds weren't blowing gale force in eastern Newfoundland thankfully.

The flag snaps loudly with insistent winds blowing hard. Laundry flutters horizontally, dancing a gyrating dance in the steady gusts. Lark Harbour is white capped. I had every intention to paddle this morning with a fairly favourable forecast, but the Gulf is rough with big, whitecapping waves.

I'm windbound for my second day. I had intended to camp on a piece of grass near the wharf upon my arrival, but within a few hours, I'd been invited to stay with Lee and Janice Sheppard in Lark Harbour.

I'd spent yesterday hiking from Little Port back to Lark Harbour. Little Port has a slipway covered by about 20 orange and green dories. The port is well sheltered from the rough seas just beyond the mountains guarding its entrance.

Bottle Cove, aptly named with its bottle neck entrance, lies beautifully situated between mountainous walls along the Gulf and a circular cove rimmed by a coarse grained, sandy beach. A few orange and green dories lie on homemade slipways and a row of menacing rocks makes for rough waters when entering and exiting the cove.

Waters were alive with whitecapping waves and dories zooming around this morning, out to catch one's personal fish quota; the season starts today and lasts until August 31.

I was lunching at Marlaine's Tidewatcher Cafe, with sultry jazz music softly playing in the background. Lark Harbour sparkles, but a cold chill reminds me that it is already August. Blow Me Down Provincial Park lies across the harbour, with rounded mountain tops covered in trees, resembling fur from a distance.

Many thanks to Lee and Janice Sheppard for their hospitality.

I'll continue paddling southwards when the winds die down. This area is called Blow Me Down for good reason!